My mom and I loved this triangle design so much that she decided to make a version in pink while I made one in blue!
This blanket is made with Bernat Baby Velvet* yarn, which is one of our favorite yarns to make baby blankets with. If you’ve never used this yarn, here are few things to know before you get started:
-Bernat Baby Velvet is machine washable, but we recommend washing it very delicately to keep any loose stitches from worming.
-We also recommend keeping your tension tight for that same reason – if you start this blanket and it seems like your stitches are not staying secure, you may want to try going down a hook size.
-If you want to avoid your skein getting tangled up in knots, it helps to pull the yarn from the outside of the skein instead of the middle.
If you’d like to read some more tips about working with velvet yarn, check out the post How to Successfully Crochet with Velvet.
We always try to give picture books as gifts whenever we give away one of our blankets and it’s always fun when we find a good match! I thought this beautifully illustrated book Hike by @peteoswald would be a good companion for this triangles blanket that I’m gifting to an expecting friend since the triangles kind of look like little mountains. Perfect for a Colorado baby!
This blanket is made with the technique of tapestry crochet, which means you will be carrying whichever color you aren’t using along the top of your work and crocheting over it as you go. Below is a video you can watch before you get started to see how this is done!
Materials
Bernat Baby Velvet (100% polyester, 300 g/10.5 oz, 450 m/492 yds)
2 skeins Snowy White, 3 skeins Milky Blue
Size H/5.00mm hook, scissors, tapestry needle
Size
Finished blanket 31 in x 34 in
Gauge 4 in = 16 st and 14 rows of WHDC
Stitches
Half Double Crochet (HDC): Yarn over (YO), insert your hook, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Wide Half Double Crochet (WHDC): YO, insert your hook between stitch posts, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Double Crochet (DC): YO, insert your hook, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through two loops, YO, pull through remaining two loops.
Front and Back Post Double Crochet (FPDC & BPDC): A front post double crochet means you insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next DC and work a DC. A back post double crochet means you insert your hook from back to front around the post of the next DC and work a DC.
Pattern
Tips to know before you start:
- Pull through with the new color on the last step of the stitch.
- Lay whichever color you aren’t using along the top of your work and crochet over it as you go.
- To avoid your yarn getting twisted as you carry it along your work, it helps to always keep one color to the front and one color to the back each time you switch colors.
- When turning to a new row, wrap the color not in use around the side of your work and continue to crochet over it as you go.
Chain 103 with Blue. (Pattern repeat is any multiple of 10, plus 3.)
ROW 1: Starting in the 3rd chain from the hook, *work 1 HDC with Blue, then work a HDC in each of the next 9 chains with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. You should end with 1 HDC in Blue in the last chain. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 2: Work a WHDC in the first space with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 8 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 2 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 8 spaces with White. Repeat from *to the end of the row. The last 2 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn. (Last stitch should be worked between the turning chain and last stitch.)
ROW 3: Work a WHDC in each of the first 2 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 7 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 3 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 7 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 2 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
Tip: If you’d like, when working your WHDCs you can insert your hook underneath the yarn you carried on the previous row to hide it better. This can also help keep your stitches tighter so that the velvet doesn’t cause any loops to slip loose.
ROW 4: Work a WHDC in each of the first 2 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 6 spaces with Blue. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 4 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 6 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 3 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 5: Work a WHDC in each of the first 3 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 5 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 5 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 5 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 3 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 6: Work a WHDC in each of the first 3 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 4 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 6 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 4 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 4 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 7: Work a WHDC in each of the first 4 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 3 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 7 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 3 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 4 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 8: Work a WHDC in each of the first 4 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 2 spaces with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 8 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in each of the next 2 spaces with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 5 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 9: Work a WHDC in each of the first 5 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in the next space with White. *Work a WHDC in each of the next 9 spaces with Blue, then work a WHDC in the next space with White. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last 5 stitches of the row should be Blue. CH 2 and turn.
ROW 10: Work a WHDC in each space across the row with Blue. Continue to carry the White and crochet over it across the row. CH 2 and turn.
Repeat rows 1 through 10 for the remainder of the blanket. I finished my blanket when I had 10 sets of triangles.
Border
Before beginning the border, weave in the ends. With velvet we like to leave long tails and discreetly knot them into the stitches as we are weaving them in. Just weave them around a stitch and back through the tail and knot the yarn to a stitch and continue weaving through. This will help the tails from slipping out.
Round 1: With Blue, work 1 DC into each stitch and 1 DC per row on the sides of the blanket, and 3 DC into each corner space. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning DC. Continue in the same direction.
Round 2: Work alternating front and back post around each DC. When you reach a corner, work 3 alternating front and back post around the middle DC of the 3 DC that made the corner in the round prior. (In other words, if you get to the corner post and you are supposed to work a FPDC, then work a FPDC, a BPDC, and a FPDC all around that corner post. Then in the next stitch you would continue the alternating pattern, working the opposite of whichever stitch you just used.)
Rounds 3 – 5: Continue working in same direction and repeat round 2. Always match your post double crochets so that they are poking out in the same direction as the previous row. When you finish the last round of your border, slip stitch into the starting corner and tie off.
Here’s a video for the border!
Thank you so much for coming to read this pattern, I hope you enjoy making this blanket! When you’re finished, please come share a picture with us on Facebook or Instagram, we’d love to see! xo, Hannah
Click here or on image below for printable pattern
*Daisy Farm Crafts is sponsored in 2020 by Yarnspirations
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